Cheung Chau on Labour Day

We were at a bit of a loose end as to what to do for Labour Day until Buffalo Wilbur got struck by the brilliant idea of taking the inter-island ferry to Cheung Chau. It seemed a lot of other people got the same idea as the ferry was quite crowded (for an inter-island ferry, that is).

It was an inspired choice. Cheung Chau was bustling.

The famous buns were everywhere.

People queueing up fo fishballs. Apparently Cheung Chau is known for its giant fishballs. I tasted some and they didn't taste that different from the normal-sized ones.

Baby ambulance to get through the narrow streets.

Cable-car trip

We've always wanted to take the cable car but were deterred by the long queues snaking round Tung Chung. Then one Mui Wo resident shared his secret with us: Take the cable car down. Doh!

So we hopped on the No 2 bus to get to Ngong Ping early – which was good because the crowds hadn't had time to make their way up the mountain yet in the cable cars.

After a quick look around, we took the glass-bottomed Crystal Cabin down. Sheer bliss... because we were taking the HK$130 instead of the HK$85 option plus it was still early in the day, there was no queue.

We walked right up to the front and within minutes, our car arrived. And when I say our, I mean that we had the entire cabin, which normally seats up to eight, to ourselves. Others would have had to pay HK$3,200 for the privilege of a private cabin.

So we could walk round the entire cabin to get the best shots, and even lie on the bottom to get vertiginous pictures and videos like these:

The half hour 5.7km journey was smooth and felt really safe,even when the car was being buffeted by winds. The only time I started panicking a bit was when we went over water.

It was such a great trip that we wondered why it took us so long to do it. But then, as Buffalo Wilbur wisely pointed out, we have to keep some things for next time...

Ngong Ping, finally

It's embarrassing to confess this but, despite living in Mui Wo, we haven't gone to Ngong Ping... until now. Determined to get our arses in gear and finally see the Big Buddha, we got on the 11.30am bus and prepared for an adventure.

I had the impression that it would all be very Buddhist but it actually turned out to be quite fun. Ngong Ping Village is like a cross between a ski resort (but without the snow) and Disneyland (but without the exorbitant entry fees).

I think it's best seen during winter. That open square must be baking in summer.
An added reason to go: Free chocolate tasting until January 2! Marshmallows dipped in Leonidas chocolate. Yummy!

These are hand-crafted chocolate figurines. If I remember correctly, they cost HK$120 each.

Another must-do is trying out the vegetarian meal at the Po Lin Monastery. You have a choice of the HK$60 or the HK$100 per person menu. We checked and there didn't seem to be much difference in terms of the dishes serves. Apparently the ambience is nicer for the more expensive menu but we were pretty happy with the more local atmosphere.

The meal was wonderfully cooked, plus you had the added smugness of being able to tell yourself it was all vegetables and therefore healthier(ish).

We enjoyed ourselves so much we couldn't believe we took so long to get to Ngong Ping. Best part is, it's only a half-hour bus ride away, so we are definitely going to do it more often!

Peng Chau – by accident

We thought we'd taken the ferry back from Discovery Bay to Mui Wo but forgot there was another kaido service to Peng Chau. Our first inkling that something was wrong was that the fare was just HK$10+ instead of the HK$30 for two we'd paid on the way there.

But luckily, we'd left enough time for exploring so the unexpected detour didn't stress us out... much. I've always wanted to visit Peng Chau but I'd thought it would have been a planned trip.

It was interesting to see how the different island destinations – Mui Wo, Lamma, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau – have their own character. I think Mui Wo is the most charming but of course, I am biased.

Maybe it was the lack of time or the fact that it was an unplanned trip but I didn't quite take to Peng Chau. It looked like what all the islands might look like if the local councils had their way – ugly concrete municipal offices right smack on the waterfront overshadowing the characterful streets and shops behind.

But the snacks were yummy so maybe we might return for a proper trip one day.

Mui Wo FAQ for tourists

I started this blog to record our life in Mui Wo and community happenings for our family and friends.

But I have been pleasantly surprised to get some comments and emails from strangers from abroad who plan to come over to Hong Kong for holiday and want to know what they can see and do around here.

So here are a few quick FAQs about Mui Wo and Lantau Island:

What sort of accommodation does Mui Wo have?

There are hotels. Silvermine Beach Hotel is the largest and closest to the ferry pier. It is run by the Miramar Group. The new wing is nicer than the old one but has only side sea view.

Further down the beach are Seaview Holiday Resort (Tel: 2984-8877) and Mui Wo Inn (Tel: 2984-7225). Be warned: Don't expect a lot of frills but the hotels do have a sort of retro charm (if you can convince yourself it's 1970s ironic and not a haven't-been-updated-for-decades look).

Off the beach but closer to the River Silver is the Silverview Resort Holiday, which looks like low rise flats cobbled together to make a hotel. The rooms look pretty basic but you can get a 400 sq ft apartment from HK$480 a night.

There are also holiday flats to let – a lot of them are in Wang Tong. You can ask any of the estate agents in town or check out the kiosks (Tel: 2984-8982) showing photos of the flats available at the ferry pier and next to the seafood centre.

What is there to see/do in Mui Wo?

Well, there's the beach, which is what makes Mui Wo popular with day-trippers. Behind the beach, past Wang Tong village, is the Silvermine Waterfall.

There are also lots of hiking trails. Or you can hire a bike from one of the three bike shops around to explore deeper into the villages.

There isn't much touristy shopping in town but you can grab a Mui Wo T-shirt from the pier or the stalls next to the seafood centre. On Sundays, a T-shirt seller sometimes sets up his stall outside Park N Shop. There's also Renge House, which is my present addiction.

Photo ops?

Plenty in Chung Hau village, and the surrounding area. Don't forget to get the prerequisite photo with the dragon at the entrance to the beach.

Toilets?
One public toilet next to the seafood centre as you come off the ferry, one in the Mui Wo municipal building, a couple along the beach and one at the entrance to Wang Tong (next to the Toilet Bar). McDonald's and China Bear has toilets too. If you eat at any other restaurant, you will have to ask for the key to the patrons-only toilets.

Tours?

There is a shop offering Lantau tours beside the McDonald's but it is quite easy to get around on your own as long as you have an Octopus card, which you can buy at the pier.

There are three main bus routes you must know: The 3M to Tung Chung (for cheap cheap outlet shopping at Citygate mall), the 2 to Ngong Ping and the Big Buddha (for the Po Lin Monastery, vegetarian meal and photos to remember your trip by), and the 1 to Tai O fishing village (for old Hong Kong, cheap seafood and souvenirs – that hat-wearing puffer fish is a hoot).

Other tourist necessities

Mui Wo is a cash-only town. The money changer is at the pier there are two ATMs (BEA and HSBC) which have Cirrus. For insect repellent, emergency beer rations, etc, there are two supermarkets and a 7-11. The stalls along the beach also stock stuff like plasters.

Can I do Lantau in a day?

Sure! My suggestion: Take the ferry to Mui Wo, get a dimsum/local breakfast at the seafood centre, mooch around the beach for a bit, then hop on the bus to Tai O for lunch. After lunch, take the bus to Ngong Ping and then the cable car to Tung Chung.

From Tung Chung, you can catch the MTR back to Central. Or if you still have the energy, catch a bus to Discovery Bay for dinner and then a ferry back from there to Central (if you spend above HK$100 per person at one of the designated restaurants, you get a free ferry ticket).

I have left out Disneyland as you need a day to do justice to that.

Is it convenient for Disneyland?
Ironically, no. Disneyland Hotel has a pier but Disney can't get an operator/permission (depending on who you ask) to operate ferries direct to the resort.

Disneyland and Mui Wo are on South Lantau but you have to go all the way to Tung Chung in the north to catch the MTR to Sunny Bay and then the Disneyland express to the resort - about one hour each way.

More info

Those thinking about making Mui Wo their home can look up my other FAQs about the amenities here.

Video tour of Mui Wo

Ever since I started this blog, I've been getting queries about Mui Wo from a few people considering moving here (yay).

I will be posting some Mui Wo FAQs later but, in the meantime, Youtube has a video that gives you an idea of the faces and place in the area.

I can't figure out the code on blogspot that will ensure that the right side of the screen isn't chopped out but you can view the high definition of the video on Youtube.

Tai O day trip

I've always seen people queuing up for the No 1 bus to Tai O during the weekend. It looked like a fun place to go for a day trip. We finally made it there yesterday.

The 45-minute bus ride had lovely views but I got terribly car sick. Must remember not to sit on the side of the slopes again because it can get quite claustrophobic.

But it was worth it. The fishing village on stilts was unbelievably filmic, with fish laid out to dry, live seafood splashing round in tubs and pretty houses the size of a garden shed everywhere.

There's lots of eat along the streets: grilled scallops (with extra garlic for serving), maltose syrup candy sandwiched between two crackers, glutinous rice cakes, pressed squid... you could fill your stomach just walking through the village.

But when it came to nice sit-down restaurants, there didn't seem to have many. Most were simple cha chan tengs decorated with an abundance of mosaic. Finally, we found a lovely spot along Kat Hing Street.

Shop-cum-restaurant The Balcony is a fairly new place, overlooking the river and a nice renovated stilt house. It serves espresso coffee (very important for Buffalo Wilbur), a selection of snacks and some local dishes. Go for the egg-yolk prawn. They peel the prawns for you so you can just pop them into your mouth like bar snacks.

How to find it: Cross the swing bridge, walk to the end of the road to Fook Moon Lam restaurant, turn right then continue on till you get to No 86 Kat Hing Street. (Tel: 9153-7453).